Of all Italy’s historic cities, Rome exerts the most compelling fascination. There’s more to see here than in any other city in the world, with the relics of over 2000 years of inhabitation in its sprawling area. As a historic place, it is special; as a modern European capital, it is utterly unique.

There are of course the city’s classical features, the Coliseum and Palatine Hill; from here there is an almost uninterrupted sequence of monuments. All of which means that Rome is not an easy place to absorb in one visit, and you need to approach things slowly. You won’t be able to see everything on your first visit to Rome-and there is not point in even trying.

Its atmosphere is unlike any other city-a monumental, busy capital and yet an appealingly relax place, with a center that has yet to be taken over by chain stores and big multinational hotels. Above all, there has perhaps never been a better time to visit the city, whose notoriously crumbling infrastructure is looking and functioning better than it has done for some time.

ROMA v LAZIO

“Apart from the old firm, which is far and away the biggest rivalry in sport, nothing compares with the Rome derby,” says Italian star Paolo di Canio.

And who would argue? Roma v Lazio is a modern day gladiatorial battle, whose potent mix of flair and tradition means that it eclipses Serie A’s other big city derbies in Milan and Turin.

Curiously despite Rome being the political and administrative center of Italy, it has only occasionally sized the country’s football power based from the traditional giants of Milan and Turin. Though both Roma and Lazio were among Serie A’s original “seven sisters” (now six since Fiorentina disappeared), they have won just five Scudettos between them.

However, the spectacular backdrop of the eternal city and the modern Coliseum of the Stadio Olimpico makes Il derby capitale special. Add in the fact that the battle is fought between some of the finest stars in the world-the fixture currently features Francesco Totti, Claudio Lopez, Antonio Cassano, Jaap Stam, and Roma’s new signing Christian Chivu-and you have all the ingredients for a football feast.

Lazio was founded in 1900 by an Italian army officer, in the wealthy northern suburbs of the city. Benito Missolini had big plans for his favourite side, and took them to his Fascist Party Stadium (PNF), and later the new Stadio Olimpico.

Roma arrived in 1927 from the merger of four smaller clubs, settling in the working class district of Testaccio, which remains their spiritual heartland. Roma also moved to the PNF during the war, and then the Olimpico in the 1950s.

The rivalry today is as intense as ever, with political and cultural differences between the clubs. Lazio fans typically hail from the wealthy suburbs and surrounding rural areas and the biancocelesti are seen as having right wing leanings. Roma, on the other hand, have a grassroots support, traditionally from a leftist working class.

The rivalry was cranked up in the early 2000s as the two clubs spent big in pursuit of the Scudetto. Lazio took the 2000 title, followed by Roma in 2001. However, since then both clubs fortunes have dipped. Lazio are now heavily in debt and Roma finished last season a distant ninth place.

But for the derby fans of both sides put their troubles aside and the choreographed flag and banner displays on the terraces-and the sporadic sound of firecrackers-are every bit as spectacular as the on-field action. There may be more important games in Serie A, but for colour, noise and passion, none matches the Rome derby.

Extracted from: “FourFourTwo”, World Football Supplement. 2003
Page  25. Haymarket Magazines 2003.
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Also a contributor: “World Soccer Yearbook” 2002-03.

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